A recycling association for the textile sector, based in Brussels, has urged the European Commission to introduce mandatory targets for the use of recyclates in textile products. This suggestion, made by Recycling Europe Textiles, a member of the Recycling Europe federation, has been set out in a new position paper concerning the EU’s Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR).

This, according to a leading news outlet, this initiative responds to the EU’s textile waste situation, in which less than 1% of discarded textiles are recycled.

However, the trade body, which represents commercial textile recyclers in Europe, says existing measures have been shown to be inadequate. Without a clear threshold level, it argues that the new ecodesign regulations will not create sufficient demand in the marketplace to support effective textile recycling. The ecodesign regulation is currently under review by the European Commission, alongside input from other stakeholders within the ESPR framework.

Addressing the Scale of the Textile Waste Crisis

“The call for mandatory targets is driven by the pressing need to protect the environment and the economy. It is estimated that the EU throws away millions of tonnes of textiles every year, and the clear majority of those materials go to landfill and incinerators.”

A quote from Recycling Europe Textiles highlights the need to establish “mandatory recycled content targets” in order to “close the loop and ensure a stable demand for recycled fibres.” This, it argues, would fundamentally change the economics of textile recycling.

The proposal aligns with the EU’s broader sustainability strategy, which incorporates extended producer responsibility schemes alongside stricter waste-reduction measures. Incorporating recycled content requirements into product design regulations aims to address environmental degradation at its source.

Addressing environmental degradation at the source is particularly important, as the textile sector has traditionally been dominated by linear “take, make, dispose” production models. Comparable approaches have already been implemented successfully in the plastics sector, including regulations governing PET bottles.

Investment and Industrial Change

By creating a regulated environment, mandatory content targets provide a means of reducing the investment risk associated with large-scale recycling projects and the deployment of advanced chemical recycling technologies, as they ensure ongoing demand for recycled products.

Without guaranteed future demand, businesses struggle to justify the significant investment required to scale advanced recycling technologies. As a result, few companies have committed the time, capital, and resources needed to develop large-scale recycling facilities. Regulations governing recycled content can create a predictable market for recycled products and, in turn, stimulate innovation across the value chain.

In addition, regulations requiring recycled content in textile products sold within the European Union will compel businesses to rethink textile design and sourcing strategies. In many cases, this will require a complete redesign of global supply chains to accommodate new sustainability requirements.

Furthermore, these regulations are expected to encourage companies to design textiles from the outset to be fully recyclable, improving efficiency and reducing future recycling costs. This forward-looking design philosophy is a core principle of the circular economy that the ESPR proposals aim to promote.

The Future for Policymaking in the EU

The next stage of the process now lies with the European Commission, which must decide which perspectives to adopt, including those of industry groups, clothing brands, environmental organisations, and consumers, as it prepares the final delegated act. This decision will determine the EU’s level of ambition in regulating textile sustainability.

It will also clarify the extent to which circular economy principles will be enforced within one of Europe’s most significant industrial sectors.

Once adopted, the precise ESPR requirements for textiles are expected to have a profound impact on product design, material composition, and environmental performance standards within the EU single market. For recyclers, robust targets could act as a catalyst for the emergence of a new industrial sector. For brands, they would necessitate substantial changes in sourcing, production, and supply chains. For consumers, the reforms promise more sustainable products, although costs may also be affected as the sector adapts to these changes.